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The green fields and woodlands of the Eskdale valley, embroidered with the sparkling thread of the river Esk, penetrate deep into the central Lakeland fells. Where the fields peter out below Hardknott Roman Fort, the River Esk continues upwards embraced by mountains to its source at Esk Hause. The only way out is via the Hardknott Pass – a tortuous zigzag of switchback bends and steep inclines that is not for the faint-hearted but is blessed with stunning scenery. In the heart of this lovely valley is the small village of Boot, home to a working corn mill, three real-ale pubs and a micro-brewery.
At the coastal end lies Ravenglass, where three rivers – the Esk, Irt and Mite – meet to form an estuary and natural harbour. Once an important Roman port and fishing town where ships docked at the end of its main street, Ravenglass is now better known as the terminus for the Ravenglass & Eskdale steam railway, known fondly as La’al Ratty.
A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a renowned owl centre, a celebrated ‘fool’ and ghosts aplenty to keep visitors amused for hours. Nearby is Waberthwaite, famous for Richard Woodall’s hams, bacons and Cumberland Sausage that are regularly despatched to the Queen.
This is the land of Bronze Age settlements, Roman forts, Anglian crosses, Viking remains, Norman churches, medieval mills and many other hidden delights awaiting discovery in this rich and welcoming corner of Cumbria.
Although Neolithic flints have been found in the sand dunes around Ravenglass, the best evidence of early humans came during the Bronze Age, when settlers lived on the high ground. The Romans were more interested in the natural harbour at Ravenglass, which became an important port around 79 BC. Little remains of the original fort, as much of the stone used to build it was removed when they built the Furness Railway in the 19th century, but the old bath house is still pretty much intact at Walls Castle.
A Roman road led through Eskdale to connect the port with Hardknott (Mediobogdum) at the head of the valley, which then continued through Little Langdale to the fort at Ambleside (Galava). Its position on an elevated spur hemmed in by mountains inspired a description of it as ‘an enchanted fortress in the air'.
Once the Romans had gone, Celts and Angles occupied the area; the former left a legacy of intricately patterned stone crosses. The next wave of occupiers were Vikings, in the 9th century, who established homesteads and enclosures for their livestock. They also left names, like Waberthwaite (Wyburgh's clearing) and Brotherilkeld at the head of Eskdale, and a series of carved crosses and distinctively shaped hogback tombstones - the best examples being at Gosforth Church.
Just above the village of Boot, a gully in the fellside marks the site of Nab Gill iron ore mine, which exploited a wide vein of haematite (iron ore). The ore was commercially mined from the 1870s but enjoyed only a short period of prosperity. The remains of an incline, mine office and smithy can be seen from the track above Eskdale Mill.
At the base of the slope, a disused trackway and platform of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway can still be seen. This much-loved railway (La'al Ratty) was first opened in 1875 to carry iron ore from the mine at Boot to Ravenglass (where its freight was transferred to the Furness Line) but it has had a chequered history. After closure in 1913, it was re-opened as a narrow-gauge railway in 1916 and found a new purpose carrying granite. The quarries closed in the 1950s and the line once again fell into disuse, but in 1960 a group of railway enthusiasts stepped in to save it. The Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway has since become one of Lakeland's most loved attractions, providing an unforgettable experience through the glorious Eskdale countryside.
Eskdale - The green fields and woodlands of the valley of Eskdale, complete with the sparkling thread of the river Esk, penetrate deep into the central Lakeland fells. In the heart of this lovely valley is the small village of Boot, home to a working corn mill, three real-ale pubs and a micro-brewery.
Muncaster - A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a renowned owl centre, a celebrated ‘fool' and ghosts aplenty to keep visitors amused for hours.
Seascale - Seascale is a small coastal town in the Western Lake District. Situated between Whitehaven and Millom it is the perfect stop off when exploring this beautiful part of the Lake District.
Wasdale - The mountains around Wasdale Head are arguably one of the finest mountain landscapes in Britain and grandest of all of these fine mountains are the twin peaks of Scafell and Scafell Pike.
Did you know?
the western lakes has a rich history, brilliantly told
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Millom
Welcome to the home of the Traditional Cumberland Sausage and a much-acclaimed family business that has even supplied goods to royalty.
Seascale
You’ll find this delightful café & farm shop beside the River Irt in the beautiful Wasdale valley – look out for the working waterwheel and millrace running through the heart of this fantastic venue.
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