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The maritime port of Whitehaven was once the third-largest in the UK with trade links all over the world. With a wealth of Georgian architecture, it’s listed as a ‘gem town’ and its rich history and heritage is on display at interesting museums inviting visitors to learn more. It even boasts links with America: it was the blueprint for the expansion of New York, and the home of George Washington’s grandmother, Mildred Gale! She is buried in the town, and her grave lies in St Nicholas Gardens.
Whitehaven is also home to a vibrant array of restaurants and cafes, with a burgeoning foodie scene; nearby, the Whitehaven Coast offers plenty for nature enthusiasts to enjoy.
Until the early 17th century Whitehaven was a small coastal village that lived off fishing, farming and salt-making. Then the wealthy Lowther family began to capitalise on the rich seams of coal in the area – pits were dug and soon the ‘black gold’ was being extracted at mammoth rates. In some cases, the coal seams were dug to a distance of five miles under the Irish Sea.
The Whitehaven mines were among the most dangerous in the world for pit explosions. One of the worst was in May 1910, when 136 miners lost their lives at Wellington Pit.
The first quay was built in 1634 to export coal to Ireland but a growth in shipping between Europe, Africa, America and the West Indies necessitated the building of additional quays, or tongues, to cope with the burgeoning trade. By 1750 Whitehaven was the third most important port in the country after London and Bristol, and plans were underway to create a town with elegant Georgian houses, wide thoroughfares and new churches to reflect the town's wealth.
The American War of Independence (1775 - 1783) severely affected the tobacco trade with Maryland and Virginia, and Whitehaven's sea merchants faced bankruptcy through contraction of markets and an increase in piracy on English ships. War may have hampered trade, but it was a boon for shipbuilding, and Whitehaven was to produce up to 1000 wooden ships over the next 100 years.
Coal mining continued as an important industry until the 1930s, followed by gradual closure of the pits. In 1943 the Marchon Chemical Works was built on the site of Ladysmith pit and became a leading producer of detergent powders. Its tall chimneys dominated the Whitehaven skyline for around 50 years until closure in 2005 and demolishment two years later.
Today, improvements to the harbour area and a careful restoration of the town’s Georgian buildings are part of an ongoing regeneration programme.
Whitehaven’s rich history is on display at museums like The Beacon Museum and The Rum Story. The Beacon Museum tells the tale of both Whitehaven and the Cumbrian coast, from Roman history to maritime heritage. At The Rum Story, visitors can learn more about Whitehaven’s history with the rum trade.
Catch a show at Rosehill Theatre, which also hosts film screenings, comedy shows, live music and more.
The Whitehaven Coast is cared for by the National Trust: here, you’ll find coastal walks, wildlife meadows, and plenty of wildlife from birds to butterflies.
There is a good selection of accommodation options in Whitehaven, ranging from B&Bs and hotels to self catering, including Swallows Return and Owls Retreat at Moresby Hall Farm.
Whitehaven can be reached by car on the A595. There are a number of bus services which serve Whitehaven from nearby destinations including Workington and Maryport. Whitehaven also stands on the Cumbrian Coast Line, making it easy to reach by train.
Whitehaven is located on the Cumbrian coast, south of Workington and a short distance north of St Bees.
Egremont - Egremont still celebrates its medieval roots having once been a part of the Barony of Egremont. One of the high points of the year being the annual Crab Fair, incorporating the internationally famous World Gurning Championship.
St Bees - St Bees Head is the most westerly point in Cumbria and sheltering underneath is the village of St Bees. According to legend, it was to this bay that St Bega arrived from Ireland, building a nunnery that later evolved into St Bees Priory.
Beckermet - Within this rural landscape of pastoral fields and wooded dells, it comes as a surprise to encounter the high-tech complex of Sellafield, Britain's nuclear reprocessing facility. In dramatic contrast to this ultra-modern spectacle the outlying villages of Beckermet and Haile quietly display their wealth of antiquities dating back over 1000 years.
Cleator Moor - The large ‘new' town of Cleator Moor was built to house migrant workers in the area in search of work. The area around Cleator contained rich deposits of iron ore. Once ironworks were established at Cleator Moor (1842) and Workington, a network of railways followed to transport the produce to local furnaces. Sections of the old railway line are still visible, with parts around Rowrah and Cleator Moor now forming a cycleway.
St Nicholas’s Church on Lowther Street is the resting place of Mildred Warner Washington (grandmother of George Washington, first president of the United States) who died in 1701 shortly after marrying her second husband, George Gale, a tobacco importer based in Whitehaven. The site of her burial is not known, but the parish register records her death and that of her maid who died a few months later.
John Paul Jones was born in southwest Scotland in 1747 and served his seaman’s apprenticeship on board the King George slave ship based at Whitehaven. A series of violent events involving his crews led to him leaving for America where he became an officer in the American navy. During the American War of Independence and partly as an act of vengeance, he decided to attack Whitehaven harbour from the sea and set fire to its boats. His daring deed has gone down in the annals of history as the last time the English mainland was invaded from the sea.
The remains of this 12th century Cistercian abbey stand gauntly amid overgrown vegetation next to the river. It was first founded by monks from Furness Abbey, following a grant of land by Ranulph de Meschines, Baron of Egremont, and consisted of a church, refectory, living quarters, book depository, infirmary and a cloister. The monks even built an ice house (visible in the adjacent field) and operated a corn mill at Calder Bridge.
The Coast to Coast Walk was the brainchild of Alfred Wainwright, and is one of the most famous long-distance walks in the country. The 190 mile (305 km) walk starts in nearby St Bees and ends at Robin Hood's Bay on the North Yorkshire coast, passing through the spectacular countryside of the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North Yorkshire Moors.
The distinctive Candlestick Chimney of Wellington Pit was allegedly designed by Sir John Lowther to replicate his favourite silver candlestick. The ‘chimney’ acted as an air vent to remove noxious methane gas from the mine workings.
The castle was first erected around 1120 by William de Meschines, the first baron of Egremont. The timber buildings were replaced by stone in the 12th century and, following several attacks by the Scots in the 1300s, the walls were strengthened and a gatehouse added. Today, only the gatehouse and sections of the walls remain. The grounds are now used as a public park, with the castle providing the stage for various open air events.
the western lakes has a rich history, brilliantly told
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The cliffs at St Bees (named after St Bega) are dramatic, composed of striking red sandstone some over 300ft high. There is an RSPB nature reserve.
Egremont
Tucked between the St Bees Heritage Coast and the western edge of the Lake District National Park, the market town of Egremont is packed full of treasures, including the 12th castle, stunning walking and cycling trails beside the river Ehen, and of…
A delightful Georgian town with its street grid pattern and buildings largely still intact and harbour signifying the town's rich maritime heritage.
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