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Grange-over-Sands is an elegant town, with strong reminders of its heyday as a fashionable seaside resort in the 19th century – all thanks to the balmy influence of the Gulf Stream and the arrival of the railroad in the 1850s. Grange’s Victorian and Edwardian elegance is still very much in evidence today, in its ornamental gardens, attractive shopping arcades and its long seafront promenade.
Around 678 AD, the Cartmel peninsula was granted to St Cuthbert, Bishop of Lindisfarne, by King Egfrith of Northumberland for the establishment of a monastery. An early church dedicated to St Cuthbert was built at Kirkhead near Allithwaite, although nothing now remains of the structure. It was not until 1189 that an enduring ecclesiastical presence was established with the founding of Cartmel Priory next to the River Eea (pronounced ‘Ay’).
Locals eked out a living with farming and fishing, with the monks lending a helping hand. Limestone was crushed and burned to produce quicklime for spreading on the fields to ‘sweeten’ the grass, woods provided coppice timber for agricultural implements and for charcoal burning, oats were grown, and the sea and rivers yielded good supplies of fish. The monks stored their grain at Grange (from the French word ‘graunge’ meaning ‘granary’) and may have had a small harbour here.
The famous Cartmel Races are said to date back to monastic times, as part of the Whitsuntide celebrations. The priory was at the heart of community life, until it was largely destroyed on the orders of Henry VIII in 1536. An appeal by the villagers to keep the church as a place of worship for the parish was granted, thus saving this impressive church (and the gatehouse) for posterity.
Up to the mid-19th century, the only viable link between the peninsula and the rest of the country was over the sands of Morecambe Bay at low tide. Individuals on foot or travelling by horse and cart would regularly make the perilous journey, fraught with danger from swift incoming tides, unsuspected quicksands or changing river currents. A guide appointed by the abbot of Cartmel Priory would conduct travellers from Kents Bank to Hest Bank near Bolton-le-Sands (9 miles/14.5 km).
Allithwaite - To the south is the former Viking homestead of Allithwaite, leading to the limestone whaleback of Humphrey Head.
Flookburgh - Flookburgh, to the west, was once an important fishing and market garden centre. Fishermen still go out daily to fish for shrimps, cockles, mussels and flukes (flatfish); the latter earning the village its name.
Cark - Next door is Cark; now a quiet village, it once accommodated a large cotton mill and was a busy port in its 18th-century heyday.
Cartmel - Nearby Cartmel is home to two Michelin starred restaurants (L'Enclume and Rogan & Co) as well as the impressive Cartmel Priory.
Mobility scooter and E-bike hire is available from the Morecambe Bay Partnership. Book in advance here.
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